PHOTO DIARY VOL. 2: SINTRA

"Where was the favorite place that you visited?" 

This was naturally the most common question I got asked when I came back from my trip. I gave a different answer to this question almost every single time. Because in that moment, it felt true. Ruin bars and thermal baths in Budapest? Of course that was my favorite. The immensity of snow-covered Swiss Alps? Of course that was my favorite. The gastronomic experience in Hong Kong? Of course that was my favorite. And a full year later, I still can't choose a single location. Every place that I visited had its own unique character and story that take a special place in my heart.

But I can answer this question unequivocally: "What was your favorite moment?"

My favorite moment in my trip was the moment I finally climbed to the top of Castle of the Moors in Sintra and saw what was in front of me. No pictures or words can do this moment justice, but here's my best attempt.

Sintra is about an hour train ride away from Lisbon. Friends and several travel sites recommended that I take a day trip out to Sintra during my stay in Lisbon. Sintra is one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, places in the world chosen by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization as having cultural significance. The remnants in this area date back to the Stone Age, and you can just sense an aura of antiquity and purity as soon as you step out of the train station. I felt like I had traveled back in time to the Middle Ages as I walked through the village outlined by hole-in-the-wall shops and surrounded by mountains beyond mountains.

I walked around the village, popping in and out of shops and reading through tourist booklets. I kept walking and walking... and realized that I was actually hiking up a mountain. There were tour buses going up and down a bigger road but I was delighted to find a clear walking trail that seemed to lead to some of the landmarks. So I filled up my water bottle and started to hike up. 

All the tourists were taking the buses up, and I could not travel both so I took the road less traveled and that has made all the difference... or something like that :P Amidst the greens and blues, past exotic gardens and soaring trees, all I could hear was my own footsteps, breathing and sounds of mother nature - birds chirping, winds blowing and rivers flowing. The air was perfectly crisp and clean. It was a damn long hike but worth every minute, sweat and hunger pangs. I sang to myself, took a lot of horrible photos and thought about life a lot.

 

Saw a few palaces on the way up to Castle of the Moors - the sign I followed. I don't remember their significance but they were beautiful. It felt like I was living a Lord of the Rings fantasy. 

And then after what felt like forever (by this time the sun was starting to set), I finally reached Castle of the Moors. And this is where an epic Lord of the Rings soundtrack started to play in my head. Really though, there are moments in your life that warrant background music, and this was one of them.

 

I was standing inside an ancient military fortress that dates back to the 8th century with visible battle ruins that penetrated its stone walls and natural tear down caused by centuries of time. It is perched atop a mountain, looking out to all of Sintra and beyond to the Atlantic ocean to the rest of the world. It is literally where land ends and ocean begins. 

I watched the sun slowly sink deeper into the ocean from the top of the castle. As I looked out, savoring every second of the view illuminated by the sunshine, I was dwarfed by such vastness that swallowed me - I was overcome by my smallness, my insignificance in time and in space. It's a soothing, childlike feeling. 

A moment of unforgettable, pure and captivating beauty and perspective. That was my favorite moment. 

PHOTO DIARY VOL. 1: LISBON

Everything in the first few hours in Lisbon was surreal. I had been wanting to travel abroad alone for quite some time but I couldn't believe that I had actually set everything else aside to finally put that thought into action. Landing in my first foreign destination, Lisbon, marked the beginning of my next 30 days: full of the unknown and complete freedom. The uncertainties of the next month were scary but exhilarating.

Upon arrival at the Lisbon Airport, I inevitably struggled with the metro ticket machine to buy a subway pass to my hostel. Thankfully, a friendly Portuguese man that spoke sufficient English helped me purchase my first subway ticket, and we even had a nice chat about Portugal's own Golden Gate Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril) when I told him that I was traveling from San Francisco. This first pleasant encounter was just one of many with kind strangers that stopped to offer a helping hand and share their stories with me. They were small, scattered and temporary, but impactful.

Getting to my hostel in Alfama was an ordeal, not only the very first time, but EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. Aside from my usual, expected lack of navigational abilities, the Alfama district in Lisbon is one of the oldest quarters in Lisbon with hilly, windy and unlit cobblestoned streets. I got lost every time on my way to the hostel, and at times with minor panic attacks. Nevertheless, my encounter with Alfama was love at first sight. It exudes history, quietness and beauty that seemed to remain in tact over the years.

Views from the balcony of my room. I woke up before sunrise every morning to the sound of cable cars that run along right outside the street.

I would have my breakfast and coffee in the rooftop area to journal and plan out my day. The hostel had a lot of cozy nooks and common areas but this area was my absolute favorite.

I was completely smitten by every little corner of Lisbon. Perhaps it was my lack of expectations and knowledge about the city. I had chosen Lisbon because it was one of the warmers cities in the area and located along the Atlantic coast, and I am a complete sucker for the ocean. But what I was met with was much more than good weather and coastal views. The different quarters have distinct characteristics that harmonize to make Lisbon one charming city brimming with personality. Alfama has the village, traditional ambiance, Chiado has the bustle of a city, and Bairro Alto has the hip, picturesque artsiness. From vibrant building colors and delicate tiles on the windows to flower-covered patios and expansive wall murals that spread across an entire block of a street, Lisbon is an aesthetic explosion.

Lisbon is known for several of its miradouros, or viewpoints. This picture was taken at the Miradouros de Santa Luzia in Alfama that I frequented because it was closest to my hostel. Views at these viewpoints are stunning. You get a spectacular view of the hilly city. At this one in particular, this old man came out everyday to play his guitar. He would play some of the most universal and timeless songs that freeze you in the moment. I will forever remember this early Sunday morning and how quaint, beautiful and moving it was.

A rare moment when I had the room to myself. I chilled in my PJs, listened to Spotify with Portuguese ads, wrote postcards and had a late but relaxing start to the day.

Coffee break at Cafe A Brasileira, which is one of the oldest cafes in Lisbon. It opened in the 19th century to sell Brazilian coffee and became a meeting spot for artists, literary figures and intellectuals. To this day, it is a bustling spot in the streets of Chiado. I thought I ordered a cafe latte but I guess I had ordered a shot of espresso.

What I loved about my hostel was that it also gave me access to their other locations in Lisbon for quick wifi, restroom or lounge breaks from walking. This one was conveniently located inside one of the major metro stops in the city. 

Simon was one of my roommates from UK who had biked down to Portugal for the holidays. He shared awesome stories of his travels, his life in the UK and his beer with me every night! That piece of wood is something he had carried around to make fire during his bike rides across Europe. So cool.

On one of the nights, I went to a Fado show at a local restaurant with a group of travelers from the hostel. Fado is a traditional Portuguese musical genre that is usually performed by a solo singer with background instruments. Fado singers sing about anything but it's known to be very soulful and melancholy. I had no idea what the two singers that night were singing about, but their performances definitely invoked wistfulness. I wasn't a huge fan of the musical style but still appreciated the amazing talent of the performers and an authentic Portuguese dining experience.

I went to Belem for some sightseeing and mostly for this amazing piece of pastry, a must-have in Lisbon. Fresh and warm right out of the oven, this custard-filled pastry is heaven in your mouth. I had two and regretted not getting more.

Close to Belem is Lisbon's own Golden Gate Bridge! This is the 25 de Abril bridge that the guy at airport metro station was telling me about. The bridge was actually inspired by the two Bay Area bridges: the Oakland Bay Bridge (the older one) in design and the Golden Gate Bridge in color. It commemorates the Carnation Revolution, a movement that led to the fall of Portugal's Fascist dictatorship and ultimately to freedom and democracy.

This obvious fact aside, Lisbon bears striking similarities to San Francisco: the antiquated yet lively vibes, coastal weather, hilly streets and cable car lines through the city. To this day, the ringing of San Francisco cable cars takes me right back to my early morning strolls in Lisbon.

Last few moments in Lisbon. I was actually just looking for a bite to eat and practicing how to get to the airport the next morning when I stumbled upon this waterfront and breathtaking sunset. Throughout the rest of my trip, it was these unplanned, unexpected moments that took my breath away. I am not a natural planner and prefer to usually be spontaneous and go with the flow, and this is how I approached the rest of my trip: to just wander and soak it all in. This might drive some of you "planners" and the J's of MBTI crazy, and it is much easier to do when you're traveling alone, without being constantly tied to a schedule and an itinerary. But this way, the things I felt, saw and did felt truly mine and no one else's. Everyday was a perfect day to get lost (unless it causes you to miss your next flight, but more on that later).